Well, @Robin, @anovikov, @Ravi, @MariaT et al.:
The Brave browser IS allowing me to open Upwork job listings. I'm talking to you through it, right now. What a delight. How come I never heard of Brave before?
YOU GUYS!!!! Thanks for all the suggestions.
It seems to call every website (so far, 15 min playing with it) "not secure" and I have to override it, but since I virtually never do anything I don't understand fully, I'll have to go with that.
Not sure if that's Brave itself, or an interaction between Brave and this old-dog computer.
However, Maria—the constant Captcha-ing (Cloudflare-ing) that began all this discussion, is continuing for me. It's just that the page fully loads now, so I can at least "verify that I'm human" and get all the way through the problem to a job listing.
From "OMG Upwork is over!" to "OMG Upwork is annoying." About which we all agree!
I'll take it.
BIG SIGH of relief. Thanks so much, @Robin!